Rioja and the Wines of Spain

In Spain, traditional wine making philosophy dictates that great wines are born, not made.  A grower/winemaker’s sole purpose is to nurture the vines and grapes & allow for great wines to emerge. One need not constantly intervene or rely on science to produce a wine. This is the principle difference in the winemaking philosophies of the Old World vs. the New World.

Spanish tradition had vintners crushing (barefoot stomping, called Metodo Rural) & fermenting juice in unglazed earthenware called tinajas. From there, they were stored in resin coated animal skins called cueros. As one might imagine, these wines might easily take on the taste of mineral, soil & strong flavors associated with organic compounds. To overcome imperfections, many wine makers would mask wine faults by ageing wine for extended periods in wood barrels. Some winemakers would blend small portions of white wines into red wines to dilute imperfections, which tended to thin the rich extraction generally found in red wines. Thanks to modern procedures, nearly all these faults have been eliminated, but historic masking of wine faults has led to a tradition of heavy wood aging of both whites and reds & has become the single most standout character that identifies the wines of Rioja.

Today winemakers realize that consumers worldwide are looking for more wines made in the clean “New World” style, although a renaissance of “Old World” tradition has led producers to start using a broader selection of oak barrels for aging. Many appreciate the delicacy of French oak & the powerful flavors found in American oak. Some have learned to use them in combination to get the benefits of both. The use of Slovenian, Hungarian & other Eastern European oak is also expanding.

Regardless, the Tempranillo grape, which is common to red Riojas, responds exceptionally well to American oak. The expression of sweet vanilla and baking spice, accented by hints of tea leaves, coconut & dill are often found with the use of American oak. These are the hallmarks of a classic Rioja wine.

 –Stop in to 21st Amendment at 3404 E.146th St. Carmel, In 46033. Meet Wine Director Bryan Criswell, a Sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers and Wine Master from the Wine Education Guild. Bryan will freely consult with you Tuesday through Saturday & assist with any purchase, questions or suggestions that you may have. 

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